This article was first published in the January 2007 issue of The Glebe Report.

If you go into your local LCBO, the trend towards organic is barely visible. The organic wine section in the Glebe LCBO is about twelve inches wide (a "sliver", as described by the store manager) and boasts a selection of 5 wines. What is an environmentally aware wine lover to do?

Don't blame the LCBO for the lack of visibility. The problem is that the organic wine bar has been set very high. More and more vineyards are turning towards organic grape growing, but to make an organic wine requires that organic wine making processes be used as well. The big problem is the use of sulfites in winemaking. The widespread practice of adding sulfites as a preservative to wine is not a modern innovation, it dates back hundreds of years.  Most winemakers consider the addition of sulfites essential if the wine is going to have any reasonable shelf life. Some people, however, are sensitive to sulfites, so the addition of sulfites during winemaking is frowned upon by many organic certification organizations.

Sulfites are also a natural by-product of fermentation, so how much sulfite is too much sulfite is very difficult question. Frog Pond Farm, Ontario's only certified organic winery, does use sulfites but adheres to the 80 parts per million total sulfites limit mandated by the Organic Crop Producers & Processors. But Frog Pond Farms co-owner Jens Gemmrich is quick to point out that standards are different in other countries.  In the United States, the Department of Agriculture allows no additional sulfites in any wine labeled "Organic," an almost impossible standard to meet according to Mr. Gemmrich. Thus the "Made from organic grapes" label that is common on many almost-but-not-quite-organic wines available from the United States.

Some wineries don't bother with organic labeling. The Malivoire Wine Company, on the Beamsville Bench in Niagara, has been following natural farming methods in its vineyards since its inception in the mid-1990s. Recently Malivoire went the extra step and had its Moira vineyard certified organic. According to Malivoire winemaker Shiraz Mottiar, this practice is not a marketing ploy but a reflection of the philosophy of the owner, who happens to live in the middle of the vineyard. Malivoire wines are not labeled "organic" or "made from organic grapes," even though they are probably 99% organic.

How do you find organic, or almost organic, wines? If you are not satisfied with the selection in the LCBO organic wine section, then ask. The LCBO product consultants are treasure troves of information, and they might be able to point you in the right direction. Beyond the LCBO, check out some of the local restaurants.  The Urban Pear, for example, has Frog Pond Farm on their wine list, in a convenient 500mL bottle (perfect for a couple to share over dinner). And of course, you can also turn to the Internet.  A Google search for "organic wine" turns up hundreds of thousands of hits. Somewhere in there there must be something you will like.