This article was first published in the April 2007 issue of The Glebe Report . 

Ahhh, Spring! That time of year when the snow melts, the birds return, and a young man's thoughts turn to ... barbecuing. To most Canadians, barbecues and beer go together like bees and honey. It is time to change that perception and make wine the official beverage of the backyard barbecue.

When choosing a wine to accompany your barbecued dinner you have to let go of some common misconceptions. The barbecue has become synonymous with informal dining, simple foods and, if there is any wine at all, cheap wine. This is far from the truth. Food from the barbecue often boasts a complex array of tastes for which it doesn't matter whether you are eating off fine china or a paper plate. For the best wine match, it's time to turn to the good stuff!

When you think barbecue, what flavours comes to mind? There is obviously the slightly (one hopes) charred taste associated with grilling.  This may be accompanied by the smokiness of mesquite chips or a cedar plank. Don't forget the sweet, spicy, and sometime sour taste of barbecue sauce. For the barbecue challenged there may also be hints of lighter fluid, but we will overlook that.

If these flavours have anything in common it is that they are all relatively intense. What is needed is big, assertive, in-your-face wines that can take the barbecue flavours on their own terms, without backing down. In other words, wine from the full-bodied, high alcohol end of the spectrum, with fruity or spicy aromas that almost climb out of the glass.

When faced with the the above descriptors, most wines that leap to mind are red. When matching a red wine with any food, however, it is important to consider the amount of tannin in the wine. Tannin is a natural preservative that is dominant in many red wines. It comes from the skin of the grape – the same place from which red wine gets its colour – and can be rather harsh, making your tongue feel furry and the inside of your lips stick to your teeth. Tannins break down over time (one of the reasons why many red wines are aged), but a short-cut to enjoying a highly tannic wine as soon as possible is to match it with rare or medium-rare steak. The protein in the steak will soften the tannins, letting the fruity characteristics of the wine shine through. What does this mean for the barbecue? If you are are grilling up steaks that are rare or medium-rare, the classic match is a highly tannic Cabernet Sauvignon from California or Chile. If instead you enjoy your steak well-done, or are barbecuing some burgers, some less tannic examples of Shiraz from Australia or South Africa, or an Ontario Baco Noir, will better suit. Other good choices from the category of big and red are Zinfandel, Merlot, and reds from Bordeaux or the Southern Rhône of France.

Bold, assertive red wines are, like noisy late-night parties, not to everyone's taste. Fortunately there is also lots of room around the barbecue for elegant reds and delicate whites. If you are grilling seafood, skewers of jumbo shrimp and scallops for example, look for a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, a dry Riesling from Ontario or a lightly-oaked Chardonnay from almost anywhere. These wines are generally light-bodied with flavours that will harmonize with the food instead of throttling it into submission. The crisp acidity of these wines will also help refresh the palette, clearing the way for the next mouthful. Grilled chicken breast seasoned with rosemary or thyme will also work well with these wines. Keep in mind, however, that if you season with barbecue sauce, the sauce becomes the dominant flavour and you should turn back to those big bold reds.

Pinot Noir pairs very well with grilled fish, especially salmon. For an absolutely sublime meal, match maple-glazed cedar-planked salmon fillets with mushroom risotto and a mid-range ($20–$30) Pinot Noir. Gamay, especially those available from some Ontario wineries,  is also a good, and less expensive, match.

One final note concerning wine temperatures. Most white wines are best when served between 7°C and 10°C, warmer than the average refrigerator, and most red wines are best when served between 15°C and 18°C, cooler than your average room. On hot summer nights it is very easy to let your wines become too warm, which muffles their character. When you are having a barbecue it is important to have a good time, but please please don't neglect your wine.